Old quarter

The train back to Hanoi arrived early and our ride from the station doesn't appear to be present so we agree to take one of the dozens of cabs to our hotel. Our agency (Tonkin Travel for anyone planning a trip to these parts - they've been awesome) had said it should be 80,000 dong ($4) and the guy has his meter running so we enjoy the ride through deserted streets and are back at our alley in 12 minutes. The meter reads over 200,000. Meter malfunction, they have two speeds apparently rip-off and regular so we protest. We have our luggage and are headed to the hotel when the driver grabs Mary's suitcase, I talk about finding a police person and getting someone from the hotel to translate, then try offering him 100,000, more than enough for the quick trip. He finally relents with one of our languages grosser terms: F you.
The hotel staff is asleep on the lobby floor. They unbar the door and give us access to our room. The hotel has sent someone to fetch us as I'd arranged before hand, but he got there at the scheduled arrival time.
Mary had a hard time sleeping on the train so she sacks out and I try to stay quiet - which is only possible by leaving the room.

Lonely Planet mentions a number of street foods one should try so I head off to find Banh Geo, a dumpling thats fried with pork, mushrooms or cloud ears and vermicelli. The numbers on the street don't always line up so 44 might be a block away for 45 rather than across the street, so I wonder a bit before locating my target.

In the afternoon a new guide, Hai shows up to give us a tour of the old quarter. Thirty-six streets indicate what they sell by their names, some have changed location because they are wholesale businesses and need broader roads for deliveries and pick-ups. We start at tin street
These are heaters which came in handy at the Farmstay for the public room.


And of course there's every kind of kitchen gadget. No longer made of tin but stainless steel.



Buttons and all manner of garment fabrication notions are on another street.





There's even a street for wholesaling spring rolls and other rolled up foods.



We then head to Hoan Kiem lake where there is suppose to be a huge living turtle. A colorful bridge leads to the temple to great generals on an island in the lake.



The Temple of Jade houses an image of the general who defeated the Chinese three times about 1000 years ago. But our observation is that Chinese culture is still alive and well in Viet Nam, with modifications of course.



-On the road with Kathryn

Location:Hanoi