We pull into Cat Ba harbor through the largest floating village which raises squid, scallops and clams. We are told by Anh our vivacious and ever attentive young guide that all the kids in this village know how to swim!
Our speedy driver whisks us away to our Eco lodge, which isn't really environmentally concerned as the name would imply, but rather, here it means in nature. Up til now every driver has been super cautious, driving at 45MPH on the large highways, and down to 20 through towns. This van driver is out to set a record tearing through towns horn blaring as we race on ever deteriorating roads to our destination.
To get some fresh air and explore a bit, I take a little walk up the hill behind the lodge and get a better perspective.
The hotel dog joins me on my walk, as he does all the guests. Its a homey feeling, a genuine welcome to my turf, or maybe its "walk, did someone say walk?" "I'm ever ready!"
I encountered a young woman hauling two large baskets of star fruit on a shoulder pole. I move out of her way off the path and keep walking up the hill to the top of the ridge, where I discover a small cement building with a large blue plastic water tank.
The woman returns for two more baskets resting on the side of the path. I motion to my iPod asking for a photo. She gives me a clear Negative shaking of her head. She may have been in her late 20s, rosy cheeks from her exertion, strong, tall and willowy. She was gathering her baskets near motor scooter, and would soon be heading for the evening market somewhere nearer to town.
Dog and I head back admiring her regal, graceful gate, knowing from a few minutes experience in Hoi An a while back, just how taxing it can be.
Labor is inexpensive here (that is to say people are poorly paid). It's also one of the reasons I'm able to spend a month here. There is time to do pretty things like fold napkins into lotus shapes and create festive food displays.
We had French fries daily and learned to eat watermelon with handles. We got rather chummy with our tour mates; a French couple from Bordeaux, Five Lao refugees - in 1978 three ended up on Toronto, two in Paris, a couple from OZ, Mary and I. We had a great time together, when the Laotian/Cambodian lady, Hun, found I spoke Thai, which is close to Lao, she had me play a trick on her son, to blurt out something when he least expected it. The French folks expected a French speaking guide, which they didn't get, so between the Parisians and I we tried to keep them up to date. I found myself flipping back and forth between languages, never totally sure of what I was hearing or saying, but it sure was fun!!
-On the road with Kathryn
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